Calvin Klein’s Modernist Mix

Originally published in Fashion Wire Daily on March 28, 2008

Kevin Carrigan, the creative director of Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans, looked perfectly at home in a trim gray suit, standing against a monolithic plywood structure erected in the center of the Calvin Klein showroom’s stark, white interior, which he had specially constructed. The fresh, polished faces of models, in an assortment of indigo denim, tweed pants and jackets, navy coats and performance wear, were arranged on three stepped levels, as though plopped down onto an unfinished mock-pyramid for a movie about teenage tourists visiting ancient Mayan ruins.

This was the setting for the Calvin Klein Fall 2008 presentation on Friday morning, March 28, and given the longstanding association with Calvin Klein and minimalism, it made sense that the set was inspired by the sculptures of minimalist artist Donald Judd.

“It makes you look at clothes in a different way,” said Carrigan about this imposing architectural form in the center of the room. “And Calvin has always been interested in his work. We have Donald Judd furniture in our stores.”

By playing with the proportion and scale of the presentation itself, Carrigan brought the notion of form in fashion to the forefront: The way clothes and people make statements in space through shape. Carrigan characterized the Fall 2008 offerings as “sculptural,” “architectural,” and “structural,”and he opted for strong silhouettes and flat surfaces in matte and opaque fabrics such as felt, cashmere and alpaca. The result of using compactly woven fabrics such as felt is that the clothes are decidedly form-driven, the collection effortlessly achieving silhouettes like an upright funnel neck collar while still managing to look streamlined and light.

“And no shimmer,” said Carrigan, who moved away from the metallics that have dominated past seasons, instead opting for rich solid colors like midnight blue and always smart-looking tweeds.

The collection is also, not surprisingly, free of prints, embroidery or embellishment. Instead, everything about the look is communicated through line and form. Horizontal or vertical pleats form strong lines, whether in a silk cocktail dress or a pea coat, and act as the “bells and whistles.”

“That to me is the perfect coat for next season,” said Carrigan, pointing to a navy funnel neck pea coat with a pleats extending from the waist. “Rather than saying it’s ‘military,’ I’m calling it ‘utility.’ Like the Bauhaus,” he said, referring to the design movement that originated in Germany in the early part of the 20th century, which emphasized a marriage between form and function and practical, utilitarian design.

“I think like an architect,” continued Carrigan. “There’s nothing wrong with everyday dressing. I design for people.”

Perhaps no other item of clothing than a pair of jeans is more iconic as part of the everyday wardrobe, and Calvin Klein invented designer denim in the ‘70s. This year, they will celebrate their 35th anniversary of their jeans, and in homage to the now legendary pair of jeans worn by a young Brooke Shields, Carrigan has brought back the original tan stitching and “omega” pocket detailing on a polished pair of rinsed indigo flared jeans. They’re not exactly a replica of the originals, however – Carrigan said it’s more about a subtle reference to the past, with a rinse and silhouette that’s completely contemporary.

So, take note – time to put the skinny jeans away.